The path leads through a forest gate and into a strange, beautiful ruin. Dozens of small stone domes, like giant beehives, sit among the trees. Walls are covered in murals: faces, mandalas, lyrics, colour everywhere. Monkeys watch you from crumbling rooftops. And somewhere beyond the trees, you can still hear the Ganga.
This is the place where four young musicians came to find peace, and ended up writing a large part of an album.
In early 1968, the Beatles travelled to Rishikesh to study Transcendental Meditation at the ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. They were joined by other famous musicians and actors of the era. The stay was short and, by most accounts, complicated, but it was creatively remarkable: many of the songs that appeared on their 1968 double album, often called the White Album, were written or developed here.
The ashram was later abandoned and taken over by the forest. In 2015 it was reopened to visitors, as part of the area managed by the forest department.
The ashram is a short walk from the Ram Jhula area. There is an entry ticket, and opening hours apply, so check before you go. Morning is best, when the light falls through the trees and it is quiet enough to hear birdsong. Wear comfortable shoes; paths are uneven. Hold onto your snacks and sunglasses. The monkeys have opinions.
Step into one of the domes and sit down. It's cool, dim and very still inside. Close your eyes for five minutes. Whatever you think of meditation, it is easy to understand why people came here looking for quiet.
The Beatles Ashram is one of our favourite slow mornings in Rishikesh. Explore GoRaahi's Rishikesh, Mussoorie and Dehradun departures.
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