Practical, honest writing to help you travel better.
Few trips pack as much contrast into one loop as this one. In the space of a single journey you go from snow-fed rivers and pine ridges to a colonial hill town, a calm modernist ci
"God's Own Country" is a tourism slogan that, annoyingly, happens to be earned. Kerala is green in a way that surprises people — palm and paddy and tea — and it moves at a pace tha
Some places are over-photographed and still manage to stop you when you finally see them. Kashmir is one. The valley earns every comparison to paradise it's ever been given — the l
Dehradun is less a single destination than a doorway. Sitting in the Doon valley between the Himalayan foothills and the Ganga, it puts a hill station and one of India's great rive
Everyone drives through the Konkan on the way to Goa and almost nobody stops. That's the whole opportunity. Maharashtra's coast is wilder and quieter than its famous neighbour — re
Kashmir's packing problem is that it isn't one climate — it's several, depending on when you come and how high you go. A summer valley evening still turns cool; a winter day in Gul
Hill-station weather has one rule: it changes its mind. A warm, sunny Mall Road morning can turn to cold cloud by afternoon, and the evening will be cooler than either. Pack for a
Kerala is warm, green and humid, and it rains more here than almost anywhere in India. Packing for it is mostly about staying cool, staying dry, and respecting a few local customs.
This loop is one of the great Indian drives precisely because the road keeps changing character — plains, foothills, high mountain valleys, then plains again. Done as a road trip r
The Konkan is a coast made for driving slowly. The road doesn't run dead straight beside the sea; it dips inland through mango and cashew country, climbs little ghats, crosses cree
Kashmir travels best as a hub-and-spoke: base in Srinagar and drive out to a different valley each day. The distances aren't huge, but the roads climb and the scenery does the rest
The Golden Temple — Harmandir Sahib — is one of the most welcoming sacred places you'll ever visit, open to everyone regardless of faith. A little understanding of the etiquette le
For a lot of Indian travellers, Gulmarg or Manali is the first time they've stood in real snow — and the excitement can hide how quickly cold and wet turn uncomfortable, or how sli
A houseboat is one of those experiences that sounds like a gimmick and turns out to be the highlight. India has two great houseboat traditions — Kerala's and Kashmir's — and they'r
Amritsar might be the best eating city in North India, and it starts with a meal that costs nothing. Between the langar at the Golden Temple and the street kitchens of the old city
Kerala eats coconut, rice, spice and the sea, and it does all four brilliantly. This is one of India's most distinctive food regions — shaped by centuries of spice trade, by Hindu,
Kashmiri food is a cuisine of ceremony and warmth — built for cold winters and big gatherings, heavy on meat and aromatics, and crowned by one of the great feasts of the subcontine
The Doon valley eats in two registers — the hearty hill food of Garhwal, and the mellow café-and-sattvic culture that has grown up around Rishikesh's river. Between them, there's m
Malvani food is what happens when the Konkan coast's catch meets coconut, kokum and a fierce, fragrant spice blend. It's one of the most underrated regional cuisines in the country
The first time Udaipur opens up in front of you is usually from a rooftop at dusk, when the light goes copper on Lake Pichola and the City Palace stops looking like a photograph an
Everyone from Mumbai and Pune thinks they know Goa, because everyone has done the version that lives on Baga Beach for a weekend. That Goa is real and it is fun. But there is a sec
There is a moment on every Ladakh ride — usually somewhere past the top of a pass, engine ticking, prayer flags snapping in a wind that has crossed a hundred kilometres of nothing
Three of the twelve Jyotirlingas sit within a day's drive of each other in Maharashtra, and the circuit that joins them — Trimbakeshwar near Nashik, Bhimashankar in the Sahyadri fo
Banaras does not ease you in. You arrive into noise and heat and the smell of incense and river, and somewhere in the middle of it stands Kashi Vishwanath — one of the twelve Jyoti
Two of the twelve Jyotirlingas sit within a few hours of each other in Madhya Pradesh, and together they make one of the most rewarding legs of an extended Shiva pilgrimage. Ujjain
Ladakh punishes two kinds of packing: too much, and the wrong little things. You can carry a mountain of clothing and still be the person shivering at a pass because you skipped a
The Sahyadris in monsoon are the best version of themselves — waterfalls where there were none, cliffs disappearing into cloud, the whole range impossibly green. They are also rele
Goa is the one trip where over-packing is almost a rite of passage — people arrive with a suitcase and live in the same three outfits. The coast is warm, casual and forgiving. Pack
A temple-town trip asks for a different kind of packing than a beach or a bike ride — less gear, more thoughtfulness. Get a few things right and darshan is smooth; get them wrong a
Every Pune and Mumbai rider eventually asks the same question: do I ride all the way to Ladakh, or fly up and ride there? It's the right question, and the honest answer depends on
Let's start where most articles about women riders should: the road doesn't care about your gender. A pass is a pass, altitude is altitude, and a loaded bike on gravel handles the
Some pilgrimages are also just very good drives, and Maharashtra's three-Jyotirlinga loop is one of them. It threads the Western Ghats between Trimbakeshwar, Bhimashankar and Grish
The most common message travel companies get isn't about price or itinerary. It's some version of: "I want to go, but I'd be coming alone — is that weird?" It isn't. A large share
Ladakh's beauty is inseparable from its altitude, and the altitude is the one thing first-timers reliably underestimate. It has nothing to do with fitness — marathoners get hit whi
For someone doing it for the first time, a major temple can be overwhelming — crowds, queues, rituals with rules you don't know, a sanctum you're not sure how to behave in. None of
"Is it safe?" is the question that decides whether a lot of trips happen at all, and it deserves a straight answer rather than either blanket reassurance or blanket fear. The hones
The Goa that shows up on every feed is a beach shack and a plate of chilli-garlic prawns. It's fine, but it's tourist food, and it's the smallest part of what Goans actually eat. G
Udaipur is a lake city with a mountain-desert appetite. Rajasthani food was built for a hard, dry land — rich, long-keeping, generous with ghee and spice — and in Udaipur it comes
Banaras eats the way it prays — early, on the street, with total conviction. The food here isn't refined or plated; it's ancient, vegetarian, deeply local, and best met at a counte
Travel the Jyotirlinga trail in Shravan and you're not just seeing temples — you're stepping into a whole culture that comes alive for one month a year. Shravan (roughly July–Augus
Stories, tips and guides from the road — to help you travel better.