Some treks are about summits. The walk to Bhagsu waterfall is about small things: the clang of a temple bell behind you, a shepherd's goats blocking the path, the first cold mist on your face before you can even see the fall.
It is one of the easiest walks around McLeodganj, which is exactly why it is worth doing well.
The walk begins from McLeodganj's main square and follows the road east for about two kilometres to Bhagsunag temple. Locals will tell you the story of King Bhagsu, who stole water from a sacred lake, and of the serpent god Nag who fought him and then forgave him. The temple stands where that reconciliation is said to have happened.
Inside, there is a cold spring-fed pool. Pilgrims take a dip. Most travellers dip a hand and gasp.
Beyond the temple, a paved path climbs gently along the hillside. It is under a kilometre to the base of the waterfall. You will pass tea stalls, a few shops, and on most days a fair number of people. The fall itself drops down a rock face into a shallow pool. After the monsoon it roars; by November it is a cleaner, quieter ribbon of water, and much easier to sit beside.
Wear shoes with grip. The rocks near the fall are polished smooth and always wet.
Most people stop at the base. Don't. A rough path continues above the fall to a small café perched on the rocks, and from there the view back down the valley towards Dharamshala and the Kangra plains is wide and golden in the afternoon. It is a ten-minute scramble that removes ninety percent of the crowd.
From here you can also link up with trails towards Dharamkot and, for the fitter and more prepared, towards Shiva Café and the upper ridges.
Early morning is best. The temple is busy with prayer rather than tourists, the light is soft, and the café above the fall is just opening. Late October to November brings clear skies and crisp air; it is cold at the water but lovely in the sun.
Sit by the water for ten minutes with your phone in your bag. Notice how loud a waterfall actually is when you stop talking. Write down one thing you have been carrying that you would like to leave here. It sounds silly until you do it.
Bhagsu is one of the walks we love on our Himachal journeys, because it gives first-time trekkers a gentle start and seasoned hikers a reason to slow down. Explore GoRaahi's Himachal trips if you would like to walk it with company.
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