Practical, honest writing to help you travel better.
Few trips pack as much contrast into one loop as this one. In the space of a single journey you go from snow-fed rivers and pine ridges to a colonial hill town, a calm modernist ci
"God's Own Country" is a tourism slogan that, annoyingly, happens to be earned. Kerala is green in a way that surprises people — palm and paddy and tea — and it moves at a pace tha
Some places are over-photographed and still manage to stop you when you finally see them. Kashmir is one. The valley earns every comparison to paradise it's ever been given — the l
Dehradun is less a single destination than a doorway. Sitting in the Doon valley between the Himalayan foothills and the Ganga, it puts a hill station and one of India's great rive
Everyone drives through the Konkan on the way to Goa and almost nobody stops. That's the whole opportunity. Maharashtra's coast is wilder and quieter than its famous neighbour — re
The first time Udaipur opens up in front of you is usually from a rooftop at dusk, when the light goes copper on Lake Pichola and the City Palace stops looking like a photograph an
Everyone from Mumbai and Pune thinks they know Goa, because everyone has done the version that lives on Baga Beach for a weekend. That Goa is real and it is fun. But there is a sec
There is a moment on every Ladakh ride — usually somewhere past the top of a pass, engine ticking, prayer flags snapping in a wind that has crossed a hundred kilometres of nothing
Three of the twelve Jyotirlingas sit within a day's drive of each other in Maharashtra, and the circuit that joins them — Trimbakeshwar near Nashik, Bhimashankar in the Sahyadri fo
Banaras does not ease you in. You arrive into noise and heat and the smell of incense and river, and somewhere in the middle of it stands Kashi Vishwanath — one of the twelve Jyoti
Two of the twelve Jyotirlingas sit within a few hours of each other in Madhya Pradesh, and together they make one of the most rewarding legs of an extended Shiva pilgrimage. Ujjain