The first thing you hear when you wake up at a Rishikesh camp is the river. Not loud, just constant, a deep and steady rush coming through the canvas. You unzip the tent. Mist is lifting off the water. The forested hills on the far bank are turning green-gold in the first light. Someone is already making chai.
That moment, more than any rapid or ritual, is why people camp here.
Most camps sit upstream of Rishikesh town, along the stretch towards Shivpuri and beyond. Some are set in forest clearings on the hillside, some on terraces overlooking the river, and some closer to the water. The further upstream you go, the quieter and wilder it feels.
Rules on camping close to the riverbanks have changed over the years for environmental reasons, so the best camps are licensed, established and clear about where and how they operate. That's who you want to stay with.
Many travellers combine camping with rafting, starting from near the camp and floating back towards Rishikesh. Afternoons are for lazing in hammocks, short walks to nearby waterfalls, beach volleyball on the sand, or doing absolutely nothing.
Evenings are for the fire. Food is usually simple and hot. Then the stars come out over the gorge, and in winter you will be glad of every layer you packed.
December nights by the Ganga are cold, close to single digits, and the river air makes it feel colder. Days, though, are clear and pleasant, and the camps are calmer than in the summer rush. Pack thermals, a warm jacket, a woollen cap and socks for sleeping. Ask your camp about blankets and sleeping bags in advance.
We love the Ganga after dark: the fire, the stars, the river's voice. Explore GoRaahi's Rishikesh, Mussoorie and Dehradun departures if you'd like to fall asleep by the river with us.
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