Almost everyone who visits McLeodganj makes the same small mistake at the beginning. They book a hotel in Dharamshala, assuming it is the same place, and then discover they are a winding ten-kilometre drive below the town they actually came to see.
So let's clear that up first.
Dharamshala is the larger town on the lower slopes, home to the district offices, the cricket stadium and the Library of Tibetan Works and Archives. McLeodganj sits higher up the ridge, closer to the mountains, and is where the Dalai Lama Temple, the Tibetan cafés and most of the trails begin.
If your trip is about monasteries, walks and evenings looking at the Dhauladhars, stay in or near McLeodganj. If you want quieter, more practical surroundings, lower Dharamshala works, but plan for the commute.
The road between Dharamshala and McLeodganj is narrow and busy, especially in season. Local taxis and buses run up and down all day. The Dharamshala Skyway, a ropeway connecting the two, offers a quicker and much prettier ride over the valley when it is operating; check the timings on the day.
The most common route is the overnight bus. Volvo and state buses leave Delhi in the evening and reach McLeodganj or Dharamshala in the morning. The last few hours climb through the Kangra valley, and if you wake up early enough, the first sight of snow on the Dhauladhars through a fogged window is a very good way to start a trip.
Driving yourself is possible too. The route is long, and the hill sections need patience, especially after dark.
The nearest major railhead is Pathankot, from where it is a few hours by road. The slow, narrow-gauge Kangra Valley Railway also runs from Pathankot through the valley, a charming, unhurried journey if you have time to spare rather than a practical connection.
Kangra Airport at Gaggal is the closest, roughly an hour's drive from McLeodganj. Flights are limited and fares can be high, and winter weather can occasionally affect schedules.
Whatever you choose, don't plan anything demanding for your first afternoon. Overnight buses and mountain roads leave you more tired than you expect. Walk the kora, find a bowl of thukpa, sleep early.
When you travel with us, the buses, transfers and hill roads are our problem, not yours. Explore GoRaahi's Himachal departures and simply show up ready for the mountains.
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