After the noise and crowd of the ghats, Sarnath feels like someone turned the volume down. Green lawns. Birdsong. Monks in maroon, saffron and grey walking slowly around a vast, ancient brick stupa. A group of pilgrims from Thailand sits in a circle, chanting quietly. Nobody is in a hurry.
Just a short drive from Varanasi, this is where one of the world's great spiritual traditions began.
After attaining enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, the Buddha walked to the deer park at Sarnath and gave his first sermon to five companions. This teaching, setting the wheel of Dharma in motion, is the foundation of Buddhism. Sarnath is one of the four most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites, and pilgrims from across Asia come here every year, especially in the cool winter months.
The great Dhamek Stupa is the heart of Sarnath, a massive cylindrical structure of stone and brick, with finely carved floral and geometric patterns on its lower section. It marks the place associated with the first sermon. Walk around it slowly, clockwise, with the pilgrims. Put a hand on the old stone.
Around the stupa lie the remains of monasteries and shrines spanning many centuries, along with the stump of an Ashokan pillar. The Sarnath Museum nearby holds one of India's most important treasures: the Lion Capital of Ashoka, adopted as the national emblem of India. Standing in front of it is surprisingly moving. Check the museum's opening days before you go.
Sarnath is also home to Buddhist temples built by communities from around Asia, including Thai, Tibetan, Japanese, Burmese and Sri Lankan temples. The Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, with its painted murals of the Buddha's life, is especially beautiful. Each temple has a different feel, and together they make Sarnath feel like a small, peaceful world.
We love the contrast between the intensity of the ghats and the stillness of Sarnath. Explore GoRaahi's winter Banaras departures.
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